MOSTAR RISES
They wait for the cover of darkness so they can retrieve the bodies from the streets for burial. It was far too dangerous in daylight as snipers are on watch. What were once parks for lovers, children, and families are now filled with tombstones; most of them with date of death 1993.
Bosnia-Herzegovina, along with Croatia, Serbia, and few other countries had been independent before they became part of communist Yugoslavia. When Yugoslavia began unraveling in 1990's, Bosnians and Croats allied together to fight the Serbs; after they drove out the Serbs, they turned on each other. This breakup of Yugoslavia, along with the mix of religions - Islam, Catholic and Christianity being the top 3, led to ethnic cleansing, bloodshed, tearing apart families, and in the end, only to surmise that it was all a tragic mistake that will be seared in their memories for life. However, despite their recent past, Bosnia remains a magical place. While those dark years were not kind to Bosnia, Bosniaks will be the first to get you laughing with their sense of humor, crying listening to their personal stories, and humble you with their tenacity for moving forward.
Mostar and the rest of Bosnia-Herzegovina is continuing to rebuild and struggle to mend fences. Reconciliation isn't easy but there is hope from a generation of post-war children and Mostarians who are willing to look to the future to heal their wounds from the past.
Nightfall in Mostar is serene along the Nerevta River, while the town is abuzz with lively music, locals and tourists strolling, eating dinner, and ice cream.
Coppersmith Street is old town's main drag. As you walk through, the Turkish influences will remind you of Istanbul's bazaars.
Coppersmith Street - Many artists living in these homes have their galleries, studio and storefront directly below.
Artists in their studios on Coppersmith Street can be seen and heard hammering tin, copper and other metals into artworks to sell.
Jaz (pronounced Yahz) has the only coffee roaster in town, which has been in his family prior to the war. Just came out of storage when he opened up Café Alma (named after his mother).
This is Bosnian coffee. Bosniaks will be quick to remind you that Bosnian coffee is not Turkish coffee. They prepare the ritual of brewing, serving, and sipping Bosnian coffee with national pride. The whole idea is to savor and enjoy while communing with friends.
This house was shot at, mortared and completely bombed out. Much of Mostar has been rebuilt but few buildings like this one remains abandoned; could be the owners died, left and never returned, or legal ownership is still yet to be established to claim.
This Muslim cemetery used to be a park before the war. Surrounded by trees, it provided a relatively safe cover for families burying their loved ones against snipers. Notice most of the date of deaths is 1993.
The Old Bridge was built during the height of the Ottoman Empire. Sadly just 2 decades ago, this 400 year old bridge was pummeled and collapsed into the Nerevta River. Rebuilt in 2005, this bridge holds significance of rebirth and reconciliation for Mostar.