Adventures in Fukuoka

TA-CHI-Aiiiiiii!!!, bellows a man in a colorful elaborate robe holding an equally elaborate fan. 

He’s the referee for the sumo bout that is about to happen. The wrestlers are on opposite sides of the ring peacocking, trying to intimidate each other with scowls and belly slapping. When the referee holds up his fan, that means he’s ready. The wrestlers are on their marks and after the initial clash, the referee theatrically calls out “tachiai!”. There’s no going back after this and within seconds, the bout is over. Both, winner and loser bow to each other and as former wrestler, Konishiki puts it, the loser is saying “Thank you for kicking my ass” and the winner is saying “Thank you for letting me kick your ass.”

Fans are enthusiastic, screaming out the wrestler's name in support, cheering at techniques executed, but also understands the decorum of public behavior (i.e., no heckling, shoving, throwing things and patiently queuing up. Vendor booths are buzzing from fans buying towels and banners with their favorite wrester's name on it, sumo themed sweets and snacks for souvenirs, and food. 

Each of the 6 annual tournaments in four different cities lasts 15 days.  You can find and watch sumo highlights in English on the NHK app.

There are no weight classes in Sumo. A 350 pound wrestler can get matched up with a 250 pound wrestler. This is where technical skills come in.

Introduction of the top sumo division wrestlers. There are about 42 of them. These are the elites - the rest of them (several hundred) are in the lower ranks.

It may appear to you that this wrestler seems indifferent by his expression and lack of eye contact but that is far from it. Wrestlers are expected to be humble and not exude arrogance or pride, even when they win a bout or even take the championship. This stems from Shinto, which sumo has deep roots in.

Outside the center where they hold sumo tournaments. The flags represent the sponsors of the event.

Starting in November, major cities have European style Christmas markets. Fukuoka has one of the largest and there are about 7 throughout the main train station area, including the area where we were staying.

Huts sells traditional European holiday treats including mulled wine and hot chocolate as well as local food.

The majority of the hut stalls sells food and drinks.

When night falls, the Tenjin neighborhood in Fukuoka comes alive with outdoor food stalls called Yatais. Not particularly cheap as you may expect, but very atmospheric. Seating no more than around 8-10 people, you have to be comfortable making new acquaintances as social interactions are highly encouraged in this environment, similar to the izakayas (small pubs). The baskets are available to put your bag or purse in and placed behind your seat. Nobody steals your things here.

Firey red maples are beginning to manifest and will peak around early December.

A nice walk around Ohori park.

where there's a Japanese garden to stroll.